Flinders Ranges trip 2010.

December 4, 2010

Camping amongst the sand dunes near Merty Merty.
Camping amongst the sand dunes near Merty Merty.

In late July Greg and I were able to get away for 10 days and headed for the Flinders, supposedly on a fact finding tour about other station stays.  SA has got quite a few that have been operational for many years and a stack of new ones have also started up recently. 

Ralph and Barbara (Sydneysiders) had stayed at Kilcowera as guests and offered to caretake the place for us so we could have a little break away.  They arrived here quite late after a trying day driving through rain and wet roads from Tibooburra.  Rain on the roof at 4 am got us out of bed fairly quickly and on our way as early as possible (when Ralph eventually surfaced!).  There has been so much rain this year that it doesn’t take much to put the roads out and being so early in the morning we had no way of knowing how much rain had been in the district.  So we decided to play it safe and went the long way around to Cunnamulla, Bourke, Cobar, Broken Hill and Peterborough.  Three hundred extra kilometers right at the start and we only had nine days! 

Once we got to Hawker we started ringing various stations to see about staying but could not contact anyone.  So we carried on up to Wilpena Pound and used their VIC and coffee shop as our office, once again trying to book in to one of the many stations on the list we had downloaded from SA tourism.  Most didn’t answer their phone, some didn’t even have messagebank or an answering machine and the two who did answer wanted in excess of $200 for us to stay in their Shearers Quarters for one night!  They explained that was the base fee for the use of their facility, there was a price per person but the minimum fee was $200.  So in desperation we rang Rawnsley Park and booked in there.  It’s very much a tourist operation, with a caravan park, eco cabins, units and a restaurant.  We were thankful to have somewhere nice to stay but it was not the type of place we had wanted to stay in.  Rawnsley Park is not comparable to our operation as it is more of an Outback resort.

On top of Mt Caernarvon, Willow Springs Station during the Skytrek drive.

We cruised all around that area of the Flinders for the next few days enjoying the spectacular scenery, some early wild flowers and the formidable Skytrek drive.  Then it was time to start heading home.  Once again we tried to book into a couple of stations with out success, so our next night was at the Blinman Hotel.  They seem to think tourists are there to be fleeced and fleeced we were, as we found this to be a most expensive place to stay at given the quality of the establishment and the service.  The meals were very good though.  And that Coopers beer was delicious

From there it was all about getting home and the rains had started to come in again from the west and roads were closing or in danger of being closed in front of us.  We had wanted to head north to Moolawatana which we did on the Mt Hopeless road (don’t you love the name?), but about 20 k’s past there we were confronted with a very large, very wet, very silty creek which we reluctantly decided we weren’t going to pull on.  So had to back track past Moolawatana and on to a little used side road heading west that eventually linked up with the Strzelecki.  Well the first forty six kilometers of that road would have to be one of the worst tracks we have ever been on.  But it was very interesting and beautiful country to drive through and we found this most magical place called Terrapinina Springs where we stopped and had lunch.  It was so peaceful; I was imagining dingoes and aboriginals peering at us from the cliff faces.  I would have loved to camp there for the night but by this time Greg had the wind up about getting home and we soldiered on, the track got much better when we went past the Mt Fitton mine.  Not long past there we passed a station with a sign out the front encouraging people to come in and stay but it was to early in the day so we whizzed by (bugger!!!) and camped somewhere along the track that night.  Went home via Merty Merty, Bollards, Cameron’s Corner, Tibooburra, Wanaaring, Hamilton Gate and home.  We were following rain all the way and the roads were mostly open and in pretty good order.  The Bulloo River overflow was magnificent and would have been another great place to camp at, but alas no time as we had to be back home for a plane load of visitors the next day. 

In hindsight we should have been ringing those stations before we left home and sounding them out as not everything you get from the internet is 100% correct.  We could not really book ahead as we did not know when we were going to be anywhere.  We had our camping gear with us so we were ok for a bed but we wanted to stay on places offering similar options to our place.  It seems that they do things very differently in SA for instance if you stay on a place and there is a drive on the property you pay extra for that – it is not included in the accommodation price, as ours is.  Also it would appear that many of the Station Stays down there do not want passing trade only bookings in advance by large groups.  We also reckon that the tourism business throughout the Flinders is very focused on the almighty dollar to the detriment of the personal needs and wants of the visitor.  Basically you’re just another punter walking through the door. 

These are our personal observations, I don’t want to upset anybody with regard to the Flinders area (it’s very beautiful), but this is how we found the places to be.  We were very disappointed at not staying on any stations in that area, perhaps another time.

Terrapinina Srings

Terrapinina Springs, just gorgeous!

4 Responses to “Flinders Ranges trip 2010.”

  1. chris armstrong said

    Toni/Greg…..my obs of Flinders in 2009 same as yrs…your operation should become a benchmark for them….keep it up….cheers for Xmas & New Year….Chris A (Warwick, QLD)

  2. Pauline Tarrant said

    We have just been to Flinders – not up your way yet. That is next year but we agree with your comments fully. Stayed at Theldarpa a few years ago and fantastic.

    Take care and cheers
    Pauline and Michael Tarrant

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